A Trip to Turkey and
Iran
I’ve
been a very lucky person in my life. Because I am frugal and don’t waste my money
on trivial things like fancy clothes and jewellery, it frees up money for the more
important joys of life like travel. From my teenage years, I’ve visited many countries
all over the globe, discovered different cultures, practised speaking various languages
and seen the world from different perspectives.
Some
of my travels have taken me touring inside Cold War Russia, crossing Checkpoint
Charlie through the Berlin Wall, and riding a camel for four days across the Thar
Desert in north-west India. I've also flown at low altitude across a
large area of Antarctica, and climbed high into
the Himalayas on a nine-day trek in Nepal. Well ... my latest trip has been one
of my best – a trip to Turkey and Iran, experienced not as a tourist, but as a
local.
If
you look back at my last blog entry, you will notice that I described "The
Garden of Eden", a place that archaeologists now associate with the
modern-day city of Tabriz, in the north-western, Turkish-speaking part of Iran.
Tabriz,
Northwest Iran - "The Garden of Eden"
During
mediaeval times, Tabriz lay at the heart of the Silk Route and was one of the
largest cities in the world, being a great centre of
trade. (Interestingly, if you study a map, you will notice that "The Land
of Nod" is just a little farther north of Tabriz, but that is a side-track
to this story, so we will forget about that amusing, little detail for now).
Also
mentioned in my last blog, I described "Adam" from The Garden of
Eden, and the fact that he had taught Jack to speak Persian, while I had helped
to improve Adam’s mastery of English. The friendship that has developed between
us led me to venture recently into Adam’s territory of Turkey and Iran. And so,
that is the subject of this blog.
I first flew to Ankara, the capital of Turkey, travelling on Qatar
Airways, a good airline. From Hobart to Ankara took about thirty-three hours,
including stops in Melbourne and Doha, waiting for connections.
"Adam", whom we shall now call Pouya, was waiting for me at the
airport. After a 33-hour flight, was he going to let me rest? Certainly not! We
caught the bus into town, arranged my accommodation, settled into the flat
where I was going to stay, and then went walking for an hour down into the city
centre to see the evening markets and have dinner, before another walk back
home. By the time I went to bed, I had been up and about for about forty hours!
Was I tired? Funnily enough, no! Or maybe I was over-tired and didn't recognise
it.
"Adam
from the Garden of Eden", Now Known as Pouya
Pouya is a mechanical engineer, a former freelance lecturer at three
universities in Tabriz, and now a PhD student, specialising in Computational
Mechanics, one of the most difficult branches of engineering. He studies at one
of the top one hundred universities in the world - the Middle Eastern Technical
University, which specialises in scientific and technical degrees, and
interestingly, has the largest grounds of any university in the world,
containing a huge forest.
A
Partial View of the Middle Eastern Technical University
In
between Pouya's studies, he made sure I would see as much as possible in my
four-week stay in Turkey and Iran, and in Ankara in particular, his newly
adopted city. We walked up to 33,000 steps per day (about 25 km), and visited
such places as Ankara Castle, built in 700 A.D., the beautiful Kocatepe Mosque,
the traditional Ulus Markets, Dikmen Park, with its fountains and ponds, and
Youth Park with its lake and fairground attractions. We enjoyed the shops,
evening markets, reasonably priced cafes, tree-lined pedestrian malls and Guven
Park in Kizilay, in Central Ankara. With Pouya's brother, Nima, we also visited
Old Ankara, the Ancient Turkish Baths and Ataturk's Graveyard.
I
was expecting Ankara to be quite boring - being a political capital city - with
modern buildings and planned orderliness! How wrong I was! From the moment I
caught the bus from the airport into town, I noticed what a nice atmosphere the
place had. Although Ankara is a big city, with a population of around eight
million, and therefore, by necessity, has medium to high density housing, I
found the buildings not too high-rise - mostly just three to five storey
affairs with balconies, and softened by tree-lined streets. I discovered that
being used to living so close to each other, people have learnt to be very
quiet and considerate of their neighbours.
Medium
Density Housing in Ankara
At
night, apart from the "wailing cats" that call Muslims to prayer at
various unearthly hours, this high-density city is pleasantly quiet. Even on
public transport and in the many lovely parks, people are quiet and considerate
of each other. I was amazed that there was no graffiti anywhere, and that there
were plenty of police around to keep things safe. One day, a man was acting as
though he were slightly intoxicated in public, and all eyes were on him. People
don't accept such behaviour in this moderately Muslim society, and there are
many aspects of modern Western life that could do with a return to decent
standards of behaviour and respect for public property.
The public transport system in Ankara consists of large buses, small
dolmus minibuses, trains and taxis. By Western standards, they are cheap, and
by Australian standards, very regular, quick and efficient. In fact, no large
city can run properly without good, regular, cheap public transport. In New
York, London, Paris, Seoul and Moscow, I have been so impressed by the
excellent public transport systems that help these big cities thrive.
Catching a bus in Ankara is amusing. Apart from the fact that the
drivers drive like maniacs (which is normal driving behaviour in the Middle
East, I've discovered), paying for your fare is a very friendly affair. Unlike
the bus conductors we used to have that walked up and down the bus collecting
our fares and handing us our bus tickets, in Ankara, the "bus
conductor" sits at a counter, like a bank teller, and the fares must be
handed to him. What do you do in a city of eight million, when the buses are
jam-packed and you can't move to reach the conductor? You hand your money to
the next passenger and he passes it down the bus from passenger to passenger
until it reaches the money counter. Any change necessary is then handed back
along the chain of passengers until it reaches you safely. A lovely, personal
touch, I thought. Just remember, when on an Ankaran bus, to hold on tightly as
the bus sweeps around bends at 100 km/hr!
Old
Ankara - How European It Looks!
I
must mention the offal shops that are a part of everyday life in the Middle
East. Westerners used to eat offal - tripe (stomach), kidney, liver and brains
being the most popular - but these foods have fallen out of fashion in recent
years, and goodness knows why, as these meats are very healthy and delicious.
Well, in Turkey, they don't stop there. They also eat lungs, hearts, intestines
and testicles. When in Rome, a good traveller always does as the Romans do, and
I was keen to try testicles. You need to skin them from the tough outer covering
that surrounds them, but once you do, a beautiful, red, tender meat like veal
awaits you, and of course, it is as delicious as any other meat.
Kokarec Barbeque
Pouya and I also visited a kokarec cafe where barbequed intestines were
served with bread and gherkins. Also delicious and not a Westerner in sight! In
fact, when I think of it, I usually went to places where Westerners didn't go,
and that is what made this trip so special. I was seeing the place as native
Turks see it. How lucky I was.
We
spent quite a long time in the Kocatepe Mosque, not only because its internal
architecture was so beautiful, but also because we got talking to a nice,
friendly Turk who tried to convert me to Islam! I was speaking in my simple,
babyish Turkish all the time, and we had quite a good conversation, but he
failed to turn me into a Muslim! During the month that I spent in Turkey and
Iran, I spoke Turkish as much as I could, and I would say that my language
mastery progressed from Baby Turkish to Toddler Turkish! It is an incredibly
complex language with many rules. It is a very precise and logical language,
and I admire and respect it for its intricacy. It makes Latin look easy, and
German and French seem like an absolute walk in the park! You should try it
sometime.
Detail
Inside the Kocatepe Mosque
Although
Turkey is a Muslim society, it is a very moderate one. Ataturk ensured that the
government remained secular, and this has resulted in a modern culture in which
the East and the West can live happily together. If you want to be a strict
Muslim, then you can. But if you want to have a drink at a bar, you can do that
too.
Shady Pedestrian Areas of Kizilay, Central Ankara
Ataturk used a very interesting technique to keep the extremist imams
under control. In the 1920's, when modern Turkey was being created, Ataturk
could see that the religious fundamentalist leaders were not going to allow a
smooth and trouble-free transition. He invited them to a special meeting, gave
them a lovely dinner and then asked them to hop into an aeroplane to fly to
another location for the final talks. This they did, and when the plane reached
the correct location, and was at a suitable altitude, the imams were pushed out
of the plane to their deaths. There was never any trouble with rigid Islam in
Turkey after that, and Ataturk was and still is considered a great hero amongst
the Turkish people.
One weekend, while we were waiting for my Iranian visa to be granted, we
caught the overnight bus to Istanbul. Turks earn only about a third of the
wages that Australians do, and yet petrol costs more than it does here! As a
result, people catch buses to go on long trips. We went to the bus terminal one
night, and I noticed that there were many companies vying for our business.
Unlike in the West, where Big Government and Big Business have slowly corrupted
the free enterprise system and discouraged small business, in the Middle East,
I was very pleased to see small businesses thriving. The public enjoy lower
prices through plenty of small business competition, while the small business
people are given the opportunity to become wealthy through hard work, just as
it should be in a capitalist society. It was great to see. Pouya bargained for
the best ticket prices, and we hopped on the bus of his choice for a six-hour
trip through the night. Before we went to sleep, we were given a hot drink and
some cake - all part of the good service. There are no toilets on the
long-distance buses, but every few hours, they stop to let the passengers go to
the loo, buy a snack or a souvenir, and stretch their legs. We arrived in
Istanbul early in the morning, and found our way to our little hotel, situated
in the heart of Old Istanbul. It was lovely and handy to everything.
Istanbul
Street Scene from Our Hotel
Once again, Pouya put me on a strict schedule to see as much of Istanbul
as possible in a mere two days, and we managed to see the Blue Mosque, the
Grand Bazaar, the Egyptian Bazaar and many of the other historical sights of
the city. Although Istanbul is the main tourist centre of Turkey because of its
long history, I found it too big, too run-down, and far less well-run than
Ankara, which by this time, I had come to know and love. Istanbul was hotter,
the queues were long, the public transport wasn't as good and the prices were
higher.
Spices and Dried Fruit at the Egyptian Bazaar
However, we did take a great fancy to the Princes' Islands, just a short
boat ride off the shore of Istanbul. We visited two of the nine islands, and
named them the Big Island and the Small Island. We arrived at the Big Island in
the late afternoon, and enjoyed wandering around the streets, looking at the
street stalls and the beautiful, old houses. Because the islands are free of
all motorised transport, the only way to get around is by bike, on foot or by
horse-drawn carriage.
Turkish Tea
The Turks Have a Sweet Tooth!
The next morning, we caught another ferry out to the Small Island. It
was a boiling hot day, and when we arrived, there were people swimming in the Sea of Marmara. Neither of us had our swimming costumes, but I couldn't resist
the water, so Pouya suggested that I swim in my underwear, as were a few others
- and so I did! We had lunch, Pouya treated himself to a very strong can of
beer, and we wandered through the streets, looking at the market stalls and
soaking up the relaxed atmosphere - so different from busy, hectic Istanbul and
such a relief from that hot and over-crowded city.
Kathi and Pouya on the Small Island
Enjoying a Drink
We
returned to Ankara on the overnight bus, and I was finally granted my visa to
Iran. This time, we took the twenty-hour bus across the whole of Turkey, and
arrived at the border with Mount Ararat watching over us. Although mid-summer,
this beautiful mountain was still snow-capped.
We
passed into Iran without trouble and waited for a taxi. In Turkey and Iran, it
is customary to wait till there are enough passengers to fill every seat in the
car, so we waited for others to join us, and chatted with the taxi drivers
while we waited. My baby-level Turkish was a source of amusement and helped to
pass the time while we waited. Once on the move again, it seemed a very complex
process that a Westerner without good Turkish could not fathom. We passed from
taxi to dolmus to bus until we eventually arrived in Tabriz, to be greeted by
Pouya's parents.
Tree-lined Central Tabriz
After a twenty-four hour trip from Ankara, it was lovely to "get
home" again. Pouya's mum and dad live in a beautiful, spacious, modern
flat, with a Western loo, which I was very pleased to see, as well as the
traditional "squatter". Over the following six days, the family,
including Pouya's parents, two aunts and uncle, cousins and newborn baby,
became part of my life. I am so grateful to Mr. and Mrs. Zoghi for their
kindness and generosity to me. They took me everywhere, cooked me delicious
Iranian food and were so warm and friendly. In fact, Turkish and Iranian people
all seem to be very loving, friendly, warm people - very family-orientated and
very polite and respectful to each other.
Pouya and His Mum
Pouya's Uncle, Aunt and Mum
Tabriz
is a busy, industrial town, and the fourth largest city in Iran. Sanctions have
helped, not hindered, Iran. The Iranians make everything for themselves,
including several makes of car, household goods, heavy machinery - you name it,
they can make it. Education for girls is considered very important in Iranian
society, and many girls graduate from university in the sciences. In fact, Iran
has the third highest number of engineering graduates in the world. The
unemployment rate is low, the crime rate is low, the people are highly
educated, and their standard of living is good. Tabriz is especially famous for
its carpets, which are considered the finest in the world. It is also famous
for its delicious Tabrizi confectionary.
Tabrizi Carpets for the Floor (above) and Wall (below)
Delicious Tabrizi Confectionary
Tabriz has many museums - in fact, almost a museum for every subject you
can think of. I visited several of them, all beautifully laid out and full of
interest. It also has lovely parks, great shops, and of course, the ancient
Grand Bazaar, still the world's largest roofed structure, and one of the first
bazaars ever built, well over eight hundred years ago. It is a photographer's
paradise, with so many unusual items for sale.
A Scene in the Grand Bazaar, Tabriz
Grand Bazaar Knife Sharpener
One night, we caught a night bus down south to the city of Hamadan,
south-west of Tehran. Like Tabriz, this city has a nice feel to it, with many
tree-lined streets, attractive buildings and lovely parks. From here, we
visited the Ali Sadr Limestone Caves, a system of caves that stretch for over
six hundred kilometres. In fact, no-one has ever reached the end of them, and
the first forty people who went in to explore this vast labyrinth of caves
never came out! A river runs through the caves, and we sat in boats hitched
together, with the front boat powered by human pedal-power. People could
volunteer to be pedallers, if they wanted to. We pedalled through the caves for
a good three hours, sometimes just fitting through tight gaps, and other times,
seeing the caves open up into enormous caverns. As usual, I was the only
Westerner in sight. I felt very privileged to be taken to such places by
Pouya's family.
"Limestone Sunrise!" - Ali Sadr Caves
Front Pedal Boat
On the way back
home, we stopped at a beautiful pottery shop, selling the finest pottery I have
ever seen - Iranian pottery is exquisite.
Iranian
Pottery
On
another trip, we visited the Kandovan Caves. These caves form a village of some
six hundred inhabitants and have been carved out of volcanic pumice. The oldest caves are over
seven hundred years in age, and it is thought that they began when people were
fleeing the Mongol invaders, and in desperation, dug their way into the soil to
escape from the terrible clutches of these vicious warmongers. People have
lived there ever since, and make a living out of the various crafts they work
on.
The
Kandovan Caves
On
a final big trip, we drove four hours north to the border with Azerbaijan and
Armenia. During our journey, the mountains grew bigger and more dramatic, as we
neared the edge of the tectonic plates that cause such strong earthquakes and
devastation in this geologically violent area - a real Yin Yang situation with
beauty and destruction mixed together. Old Christian churches can be seen in
this area where Christianity and Islam have met side by side.
"Tectonic Mountains"
Christian Church Amongst the Mountains
Just a few final points to mention are the Iranian barbeques, the
nightlife and the alleyways. In Iran, to have a barbeque, you buy charcoal at
the market and then pour it into a small metal box on the ground. You set the
charcoal alight with the help of some accelerant, followed by energetic fanning
to allow the charcoal to burn red-hot. Once enough heat is generated, you lay
your kebabs and tomatoes which have been impaled on flat skewers, or
"shishes", across the barbeque.
Fanning the Barbeque
Concerning nightlife, if you live in a Muslim society, what do you do to
relax after work? You certainly don't go to the pub! What can you do instead?
You go with your family or friends to the park, have a stroll around the lake,
buy an ice-
Evening
Scene at a Local Park
Enjoying an Ice-cream
Iranian Metalware
Modern Dress and Shops in Today's Iran
My
wonderful journey finally came to an end as we headed back to Ankara - this
time not on the twenty-hour bus, but by plane. From Ankara, I flew back through
Doha to Melbourne, and finally to my little home in Hobart, and from the heat
of a Middle Eastern summer to the wintery, snow-capped Mount Wellington which
stands watch over the pretty little city of Hobart.
Inscriptions in the Rock by Darius, King of Persia, ~ 450 B.C.
Middle Eastern Instruments in
the Making
Kathi at the University Cafe in Turkey
Winter in Hobart
Very informative and enjoyable entry Kathi. Sounds like it could have been a tiring trip with such long bus journeys but you certainly saw some amazing sights. Even baby Turkish would be beyond me I fear as language learning seems to have become too hard. Great to catch up on your news.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Rob. Glad you enjoyed my story. Xx
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